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To no one in particular, the man shouts “Shama Lama Ding Dong! I’m at the Treasure Chest Casino in Kenner, Louisiana, and this is Oldies Night, founded by WTIX 94.3 FM, a radio station so old that it played oldies when they were just called rock ‘n’ roll.

Every Sunday, the station invites listeners to a four-hour live broadcast from the Caribbean Room, set inside a casino on a docked riverboat about fifteen minutes from New Orleans, and decked out with so many twinkle lights the whole thing looks like a multi-layered birthday cake.

Each day this week, Narratively and City Lab will publish a new Secret City story.

try to follow the steps of a line dance forming to a song I’ve never heard before when a middle-aged woman in hot pants whispers that I’d better get off the dance floor with my cocktail glass, because there is no telling how dangerous the dancing might get.

A few minutes later, sensing my confusion and observing my missteps, a man approaches me on legs shaky from age but firm from cha-chas and says, “Dancing is just fancy walking.

If you remember that, you’ll never go wrong.” As he walks away, “Shama Lama Ding Dong” starts to play.

How do we build a modern city that honors its traditions, its unwieldy streets, its gridless plan?

How do we make ourselves inviting to newcomers and protect those who have always called this home?

A friend from college visited me in New Orleans one summer.

And though D met Steve when she was fourteen, and has four grown children with him, the oldest of whom is 45, the two have only been married five years. In this sense, Oldies Night is the event truest to New Orleans, a place impermeable to change.

“He’s been married six times,” D tells me, hawking a thumb at Steve. At the Treasure Chest, you don’t have to succumb to quaint stereotypes of what it means to be from New Orleans. He has wavy brown hair and a matching mustache, and a voice that feels like it’s coming from a radio even though he’s sitting right in front of you. “We dominated the music charts from ’54 to about ’64.




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